|
River Thames Pubs
inns and Pubs on the River Thames
On both banks of the river you will see several old inns that have been
standing there for hundreds of years. The Mayflower at Rochester, The
Angel at Southwark, Captain Kidds at Wapping, The Grapes at Limehouse,
The Prospect of Whitby at Wapping and the Town of Ramsgate at Wapping
Stairs all hold within their walls the secrets and tragedies of the
River.
The pub currently known as the Mayflower has had this name only since
the 1960s. However, the pub has stood here, very close to St. Mary's
church, since around the middle of the 16th century and has gone by the
name of The Shippe and then later the Spread Eagle and Crown. It is cosy
and warm, with exposed beams and open fireplaces in winter. This pub is
unique too as being one of the few public houses that is licensed to
sell postage stamps, including American ones. There is a good restaurant
upstairs and a riverside veranda that looks across to the Captain Kidd
pub on the opposite bank.
The Angel is one of the oldest public houses in Southwark. There were
many warehouses built behind the pub, which were used for tobacco. They
have since been pulled down and the foundations of Edward III's palace
have now been revealed. The Angel dates back to the 15th Century when
the Bermondsey Monks built the first inn here as a resting point for
travellers journeying to London from the south. The Monks used to bury
their dead where they lived and although the original inn is long gone,
the remains of several Monks still lay within the foundations of the
present building as a reminder of its origin. The current pub is fairly
rundown but it is still worth a visit on a good day as there are tables
outside and the views of the river and tower bridge are excellent.
Across the river on the opposite bank is the Captain Kidd public house.
This 17th century building has been a pub for only around 100 years.
Previously it was a warehouse for boat builders and sail menders. From
the Wapping High Street entrance the pub is not very impressive but once
past this facade it is enchanting. Great outdoor terrace overlooking the
river with all the wonderful views. Captain Kidd himself was a Scottish
ship-owner in New York during the end of the 17th century. After
spending some time as a privateer (hunting and capturing pirates) he
turned to the trade himself. He was arrested and charged with piracy and
executed in 1701 at Execution Dock, Wapping. During the execution the
rope broke and he was hanged on the second attempt. Afterwards, his body
was left until it had been washed by the traditional three tides. After
tarring his corpse was taken to Tilbury Point on the Essex side of the
Thames, and hung in chains as a deterrent to other pirates. From the
river, Execution dock is marked with a large 'E' on the building at the
site of Swan Wharf.
After a day visiting Canary Wharf, any of these are great to go to for a
meal and a drink. Nearest to the London Docklands is Captain Kidds or,
alternatively, The Grapes Built in 1720 this tiny, narrow pub managed to
survive the massive development of the Docklands. It was an early,
favourite watering hole for riverside working men and has many grisly
tales associated with this. It was also a place where Charles Dickens
went and he immortalises it in his novel, Our Mutual Friend. However, it
is very small and difficult to get a seat during busy times, especially
on the tiny veranda that overlooks the river. The food is excellent and
the pub has won prizes for its fish dishes. Worth going to but best to
book beforehand if you want to eat there. Also, sadly, the pub does not
welcome children, so not a place for families.
A little further along the river is The Prospect of Whitby, probably one
of the most famous pubs in London and dating back to around 1530. It was
here allegedly that the famous 'Hanging Judge Jeffreys' tried to escape
to France in the footsteps of the deposed Catholic King James II and
here, too, both Samuel Pepys and Charles Dickens sated their thirst. The
pub still has lots of charm but its recent refurbishment has resulted in
some of its character being lost. Although busy in summer, The Prospect
of Whitby is bigger than The Grapes and children are welcome.
The Town of Ramsgate located a little down river at Wapping Stairs is
another ancient pub. Less well known than the Prospect of Whitby down
the road, The Town of Ramsgate has a more pubby feel to it. It also
seems to be the pub where the locals of the area drink and although a
little bit more pricey it seems less touristy. Its location is very
close to where Execution Dock stood . At this site condemned men were
chained to posts in the river and drowned. A mock gallows in the pub is
a grisly reminder of this. From the river this pub is surrounded by some
beautiful old Victorian and Georgian houses, one of which was a former
Dockmastert's house and is next to Oliver's Wharf an old warehouse now
converted into luxury apartments and has, so rumour has it, the singer
Cher as one of its most famous residents.
|
|